History:

It is not known when the first bike was made, but sketches were done by Leonardo de Vinci in the 15th century. It began to become popular in the 1790, with Frenchman, M. de Sivrac. He was seen in the garden of Palace Royal riding a contraption with two wheels mounted on a wooden frame that resembled a horse. It was called the Velocifere, but there were some problems with it. You could not steer and it did not have any pedals. It was pushed by the feet like a scooter. By removing the ornamental animal head and making some improvements the bike became lighter, graceful in appearance and was steerable. In the 1860's, Scotsman Kirkpatrick Macmillan made a machine of wood and iron. It was pedaled and had a front wheel that could be steered. There was also a brake operated from the handlebars, a spring seat to absorb road shock, and even a fender to protect the rider from dirt thrown up by the rear wheel. In 1865, riding became a craze in France, the United States, and England. One of the next bike models made was called "Ordinary" which enabled the rider to travel high speed over rough terrain. As the 1890 approached, inventors put efforts into developing what came to be called the "safety bicycle." The first time anyone saw two wheels of equal size, pedals driving the rear wheel through a system of chains and sprockets (like our modern bikes) was 1884. The "Rover" was produced in England in 1886 and it looks like one of today's bikes. This bike was a model of the "safety bike," and started the beginning of the modern bicycle as we know it.

Illustrated history books show pictures of bicycles designed specifically to accommodate women's long skirts. In 1890, a French woman by the name of Mlle Dutrieux gained professional status as a racer for the Simpleson Lever Chain Company. She was competing against men in international racing events.

Around the turn of the century a person named Sturmey-Archer developed the multiple-speed rear hub. Sturmey-Archer was from England. This was better than the rest of the bikes because it allowed the cyclist to set the speed to three different ratios with a flick of the tiny lever on the handlebars. This the distance over hilly terrain and gave the bike higher speeds. Soon after Surmey-Archer's invention became popular in the 30's, the derailer system of shifting gears appeared on bikes in France and Italy. The derailer system was better than Sturmey-Archer's invention because it allowed the rider five to ten speeds. Because the first derailer systems were expensive and hard to operate, they were used only by racers. It was not until the late 50's that the mechanism had been refined to the point that it began to appear on European touring bikes. It was not until the 60's that Japan manufactures brought the cost down and made the ten speed available to the general user.

Even though these complex bicycles were growing more popular weighed in from 30 to 50 pounds (ouch!), the frames tended to be soft, or springy and flexible. Soft, flexible frames provided riding comfort, but this really isn't good because most of the rider's power is being absorbed by the frame. By using a better metal the biker's power was sent into the rear wheel making the bike faster.

The road biking was become a craze in the United States and Europe, companies began sponsoring races just to bring their names and products to public attention. Manufacturers were researching to improve their bikes just to get the slightest edge over the competition. Biking was becoming a big market and even continuing today, huge technological improvement and advances are being made.

Lightweight Wheels

• Engineers discovered that the lighter the tire is the better it will respond and the faster it will go. Reducing the tires by 10 pounds was like taking 20 pounds off the frame.

Toe clips

• Before toe clips were invented the pedals went around 360 degrees while the riders foot only went around 180 degrees. The rider was not getting the full power that the bike offered. With the invention of the toe clips the rider can always be using his power no matter what part of the pedal rotation he is at. This invention gave the rider about a 20% advantage over a rider without a toe clip.

Handlebar design

• The first bikes had the handlebars at waist level. This was bad for the rider because the riding position was upright. Having the riding position upright the riders body was a major source of wind resistance. Riders began to notice this so they bent the handlebars allowing them to ride in the crouched position. This cut wind resistance by about 30%. Riding in this position also allowed the biker to put more power into the pedal stroke, thus going faster.

Parts and Components:

There are many parts to the road bike. From pedals to brake cables each part has a purpose. There are many differences between the road bike and the mountain bike though. So take the time and see some of them. Below are descriptions of the parts on most road bikes. Use the numbers, or just browse through the descriptions.

1: Pedals

• The pedals are the first part of the leverage system. By pushing on the pedals you transfer your energy to the rear wheel and the bike moves forward.

2: Cranks or Crankarms*

• This is the alloy lever that the pedals turn on. It transfers your energy from the pedals to the chain.

3: Bottom Bracket*

• The bearing assembly by which the cranks are connected to the frame. The Bottom Bracket contains a ball-bearing. This bearing reduces friction as the crankarms are turned.

4: Chainwheel or Chainrings*

• These are one, two, or three large sprocket(s) that are fastened to the crankarm assemble and turned by the petals. They allow for different gear ratios.

*2-4 make up the Crankset

5: Chain

• A chain has about 100 links. Each link has its own bearing. It delivers energy from your feet to the back wheel of the bike by turning the freewheel in the back of the bike as you turn it with the chainwheel. Different gear ratios are possible by shifting the chain form one sprocket to the another.

6: Freewheel

• The freewheel is a bundle of five (more or less depending on the bike model) gears attached to the rear wheel hub. The chain turns the freewheel which allows the rotation of the rear wheel. The freewheel contains a ratchet system to allow the bike to coast forward without moving the chain or pedals.  

7: Front Derailer

• This mechanism moves the chain from one chainwheel to another. It is controlled by a shift lever on the left side of the bike.

8: Rear Derailer

• This mechanism moves the chain from one gear to another on the freewheel. It is controlled by the shift lever on the right side of the bike.

9: Gear-shift levers

• These are usually referred to as shifters. There are two levers; one on the right side of the handle bars and one on the left. When the rider moves the gear-shift position the derailers select the different gear ratio.  

10: Tension Roller

• This is located in the rear derailer. This is a system of two small sprockets which provide tension to keep the chain taut. It moves with the chain as gears are shifted.

11: Hubs

• The hubs contain the bearings for the wheel. The hub flanges usually have 36 holes for spokes.

12: Quick- release levers

• This is a lever system which replaces a nut and bolt for fastening the wheels to the frame. The system is named as it is because it allows the cyclist to remove a wheel, or adjust his seat instantly without the use of tools.

13: Spokes

• Each wire spoke has a wire nipple wick connecting it to the rim. The nipple is threaded. This provides a way to tighten or loosen the spoke which adjusts the wheel for stiffness, and removes wheel wobble.

14: Rims

• These steel or alloy bands hold the tires and connect to the axle and hub assembly by means of the spokes.

15: Tires

• There are two basic types of road biking tires available. The clinchers are for touring and recreation. The sew-ups are for racing and high-performance cycling. Each type of tire requires a different kind of rim.

16: Tire Valves

• This is a device where you pump air into the tire tube to inflate the tires.

17: Saddle

• There are two purposes of the saddle (seat). The first is to support you and the second is to place your body in its most efficient riding position in relation to the pedals and handlebars.

18: Seat Post

• This is a steel or alloy tube that connects the saddle to the bike frame and can be adjusted depending on the rider's height.

19: Seat Tube

• This is a frame tube that runs from the seat to the bottom bracket.

20: Top Tube

• This is a frame tube that runs from the seat to the head tube.

21: Seat Stays

• This is a frame tube that runs from behind the seat to the rear axle of the bike.

22: Seat Lug

• This is a pressed-steel reinforcement that connect the top tube, seat tube, and seat stays to the frame. It has a clamping device which provides a way to tighten the seat post into the frame (usually by quick-release mechanism).

23: Chain Stays

• These are frame tubes that run from the bottom bracket to the rear wheel of the bike.

24: Rear Dropouts

• This is a lug attached to the end of the chain stays. This provides a junction for the chain stays and seat stays. It also provides a surface for attaching the rear wheel to the frame. The dropout on the right side often has a built-in bracket for fastening the rear derailer to the frame.

25: Head Tube

• This is a frame tube that joins with the top tube and down tube of the bike.

26: Front Fork

• This assembly holds the front wheel and connects it with the frame through a system of bearings mounted in the head tube.

27: Fork Crown

• This is a metal assembly that joins the two fork tubes to the steering tube.

28: Front Dropout

• These are also called the fork tips. These are lugs attached to the front fork tubes which provide a solid metal surface for attaching the front wheel axle to the frame.

29: Headset

• This is a ball-bearing assembly which includes one bearing at the top and one at the bottom of the head tube/fork assembly. This system of bearings allows the front wheel to be turned while holding the fork in the frame. It is important that you have a good-quality headset so that you bike can absorb shock transmitted form the road through the front wheel while also allowing the bike to be smoothly steered.

30: Lugs

• These metal reinforcements are used wherever one or more frame tubes come together.

31: Down Tube

• This is a frame tube that runs from the head tube to the bottom bracket.

32: Handlebars

• The handlebars are not only used to steer the bike but are a integral part of the leverage system by which the bike is powered forward. Pulling up on the handlebars also increases the force exerted on the petals.

33: Handlebar Stem

• This is a metal clamp assembly fastening the handlebars to the front fork. They come is many different sizes, making the distance between the handlebars and the seat longer or shorter to accommodate individual rider differences.  

34: Caliper Brake

• These are either side-pull or center-pull brakes. They are shaped like calipers and press the brake pads against the wheel rim which in turn stops the bike.

35: Brake Lever

• This is a hand lever, mounted to the handlebars, that allows the rider to control the brakes.

36: Brake Cable

• This is a thin wire cable that runs from the brake lever to the calipers, controlling the brakes.

Bicycling Activities:

Safe and proper bicycling offers a lifetime of enjoyment and fitness.  Social and other benefits are also possible by joining a local bicycle club.  Bicycle club members can supply a wealth of knowledge and are happy to help newcomers become more knowledgeable and more skillful bicyclists.  Usually club members are aware of the latest equipment.  On club rides the novice can rapidly learn what others spent years finding out; where the best rides are, bicycling techniques that make riding easier, and favorite lunch stops.

There are many types of cycling clubs, including road racing, touring, and off-road.  Check with a local bicycle shop t find out about club activities.  The novice is wise to investigate joining a touring club.  Touring clubs usually have three levels of rides: short, medium, and long, or easy, moderate, and strenuous.  Initially pick an easy ride and go with the club.

Basic Training Tips and Riding Skills:

Cycling is an activity that can be enjoyed throughout the your life, either with a group or by yourself.  Getting started is easy, but many cyclists ultimately seek to  enhance their riding ability, usually in anticipation for a "big" ride.  Therefore, a progressive riding program is needed to continually tax the rider to improve.  Your cycling regimen may, however, be part of an overall fitness program, which involves flexibility work and strength training exercises.  Regardless of your goals, moderation is the key to long-term improvement, and always be cautious when beginning a new exercise program.

Depending on your planned riding intensity, every ride should begin with an initial warm-up period of about 10-20 minutes of low-level riding.  Once warmed-up, you can begin your ride in earnest.  Whether you're an aspiring racer, or a bike tour rider, it is important to very your riding from day to day to avoid boredom and improve all facets of your cycling fitness.  For example, on some days you can ride longer at an easy to moderate pace, while on others you can perform a shorter, faster ride.  These "fast" rides can be broken into intervals: for example, you could do two or three 5 minute "fast" stretches interspersed with 5 minutes of easy riding, or a series of 15 second sprints interspersed with long, easy stretches.  Such varied training helps improve all facets of your riding, thereby improving your overall enjoyment by making it easier when you need to ride into a headwind or climb a hill.

The above is just a simple training outline to get new riders started.  If serious long distance riding, or even racing, is your aim, obtain one of the many books on training that can be found on the web or at your local bookstore.  The books contain a wealth of training and tactical knowledge on road and MTB training and racing.  Some books even help you outline entire yearly plans.  Another approach is to hire an experienced cycling coach.  A good coach can help you avoid many pitfalls and overcome training hurdles a book cannot.  For a list of qualified coaches contact USA Cycling, or search the web yourself, as many coaches have their own websites.

As with riding up long, gradual hills, you should maintain a good cadence into the wind.  This might require you to shift to an easier gear.  The prime consideration with riding hills or into the wind is effort, not speed.  You will have to slow down.  Do not make the mistake of maintaining speed, as riding into a hard wind or up a hill with a high gear wears you out quickly, sapping valuable energy reserves that you might need later.  A big energy saver when riding into the wind, or anywhere for that matter, is drafting.  When drafting, ride about 6 to 12 inches behind the rider in front of you.  By doing this, you reduce your effort at the lead rider's expense by about 30 percent, that is, it is easier to go faster or farther.  When drafting, pay close attention to the task: keep hands on the brake hoods or levers and eyes focused on the road in front of the lead rider, not his or her rear wheel.  In so doing you can anticipate when the lead rider will have to alter course or speed, which permits proactive rather than reactive riding.  Drafting takes proactive but it is an essential skill, one that allows experienced riders and beginners to ride together enjoyably.

Tips for Your Ride:

When heading out on a ride it is a good idea to be prepared for the road or trail ahead.  Bring along a tool pack for roadside repairs, and some money (just in case), and dress appropriately.  In cool weather, always wear more clothing than you think you need; you  can always take something off if too warm, but if you're cold you can't add what you don't have.  Carry sufficient food and drink for your ride.  One large water bottle for each hour is sufficient under most conditions.  If you're riding more that 1 hour, a sports drink, like Gatorade or PowerAde, may be useful because the sugar helps to maintain energy levels; the best energy drink is the one that tastes the best to you.  You could also carry a bit of food, as well.  Experienced riders have a saying, "Eat before you are hungry and drink before you are thirsty;" by the time you are thirsty you are already dehydrated.